Encounter windmills, saffron, castles, and a stunning natural landscape in central Spain.
Given the number of times I’ve flown into Madrid’s Barajas Airport, you might assume I know Spain’s capital city well, yet I’ve only spent two or three days there while in transit to other parts of this fascinating country, one of my favorites in Europe. Though Madrid should certainly be part of a first trip here, it is well worth heading elsewhere – exploring Spain’s other cities, towns, and natural wonders. Each time I’m here I am inspired and enchanted and already planning my next trip before I even head home.
Venture southeast of Madrid to the region of Castilla-La Mancha and you’ll find two cities I fell in love with on my most recent visit, as well as a nearby town that’s perfect for a side excursion. You can easily reach both Toledo and Cuenca by high-speed Ave train from Madrid, and the town of Consuegra is just 40 minutes from Toledo by car (it can also be reached by bus). Plan to spend at least a week here and be sure not to miss these ten highlights:
Cuenca’s St Paul Bridge
Just steps from the Cuenca Parador (formerly the Convent of San Pablo), the bridge was constructed in the 16th century, connecting the convent to the city over the Huecar River Gorge. Deterioration necessitated demolishing the stone bridge at the end of the 19th century, replacing it in 1903 with the iron bridge that stands today. Built in the Eiffel iron style of architecture popular at the time, it stands 40 meters high and spans 110 meters across. It’s a great place to take pictures of the city; despite my fear of heights I traversed it at least eight times during my stay!
Cuenca’s Hanging Houses
There is perhaps no more iconic image of Cuenca than of the hanging houses, though today only three remain of the structures that once lined the city side of the Huecar Gorge. Built in the 15th century and appearing to cling perilously to the cliff side, they were restored in the 1960s and today house Casa de la Sirena restaurant and the Museum of Spanish Abstract Art. Sample the flavors and influences of regional cuisine from an innovative tasting menu at the restaurant before exploring an impressive collection of more than 100 Spanish abstract paintings and sculptures from the 1950s and 60s.
Cuenca Cathedral and Main Square
Travel uphill after crossing into the city via the San Pablo Bridge and you’ll reach the main square, the Plaza Mayor, bordered by the Cathedral of Cuenca and the town hall. It bustles with restaurants, bars, and outdoor vendors; shaded streets wind away from this central spot. Walk around and get a little lost. Stumble upon one of the many city museums and churches, or gaze out over a scenic overlook. Back at the Cathedral, built, repaired and renovated between the end of the 12th and 20th centuries, you’ll see that the mix of architectural styles reflects this. Spend some time viewing the art collection in its Treasure Museum including paintings, tapestries and carpets.
Consuegra’s Windmills
Whether you’ve read “Don Quixote” or not, these windmills are a must see in the region, and the site of the battle against the giants in author Miguel de Cervantes’ literary classic. Take a day trip to the rocky Calderico Ridge just outside of town to snap pictures (12 of the original 13 remain). Four of the windmills are still in working condition and you can even climb up inside one to see how it operates. Save a few minutes to purchase a cute souvenir at the tiny gift shop within the entrance and be sure to visit the nearby Consuegra Castle.
Consuegra’s Saffron
Though the annual Saffron Festival is held the last weekend in October at the end of the saffron harvest, it’s possible to visit Consuegra anytime and stop in a family home to see how the saffron is handled after it is picked. The tourist office will direct you to families such as the Lozanos, who even sell jewelry made from the hand-harvested flower – a beautiful and unique memento to bring home. El Afar, a restaurant in town, utilizes saffron in many dishes and is a great place to stop for a traditional lunch.
Toledo’s Primate Cathedral
It took a whopping 267 years - from 1226 to 1493 - to build this cathedral, in the French Gothic style, and you need only set foot inside to see why. Everything from the three entrance gates – Hell’s Gate, King’s Gate and Judgment Gate – to the stunning altarpiece - is exquisitely and intricately detailed in this fourth largest cathedral in the world. Don’t miss the works by El Greco and other important painters from the 16th to 18th centuries or the gold and silver monstrance, created by silversmith Enrique de Arfe in the 16th century. You can purchase tickets to visit the cathedral during the day, at night, or both.
Toledo’s Alcazar Army Museum
The Alcazar was once a fortress, although the original structure no longer exists. First built in wood by Romans, and then by the Visigoths in stone, it was later rebuilt by the Muslims who gave it its Moorish influence. It finally became a palace when Christians reconquered the city in the late 11th century. Today the building is headquarters to the military government of Toledo and houses the army museum collection, including weapons, uniforms, miniatures and more, spread between the Alcazar and a new building. You can also see remnants of the Alcazar’s various constructions.
Toledo’s El Greco House Museum and Church of Santo Tome
Two buildings - a 16th century house and 20th century extension – connected by a lovely garden, house many of the painter’s works from the later part of his life as well as work of other 17th century painters. The museum is situated in Toledo’s Jewish Quarter, and it’s a short walk from here to the city center and the Church of Santo Tome, where you’ll find one of El Greco’s most famous paintings, “The Burial of Count Orgaz.”
Toledo’s Jewish Quarter and Synagogues
This section of Toledo is where many Jews lived and was a hub of Jewish life until they were expelled or forced to convert in 1492. The two remaining synagogues no longer serve as such. The Transito Synagogue, built in the 14th century, contains the Sephardic Museum with items from Jewish medieval life. The Santa Maria la Blanca Synagogue, designed in the Mudejar architectural style, (converted into a church in the 15th century) is preserved as a monument so visitors can walk among its beautiful white columns and the building’s surrounding garden.
Toledo’s Underground
You can book a small group or a private tour of Toledo’s underground and visit several archaeological sites most visitors never access. Our guide, and archaeologist, Diego Esteban, is one of only a few who hold keys to these treasures, including an extensive Roman bath and a cistern. Much of the underground is yet to be uncovered as it exists under private property but these few sites give a glimpse into Toledo’s past.
Where to stay
Spain’s Paradores are my favorite places to stay – each with its own unique character, reflecting local culture, architecture and charm. The Parador of Cuenca and Parador of Toledo are no exceptions, affording guests spectacular views of their respective cities and appointed with a restaurant serving local cuisine and an outdoor pool for a cool dip after a full day of sightseeing.
For more information on Toledo and Cuenca, visit www.spain.info; for a tour with Diego Esteban, visit www.visitoledo.es; and for information on the Paradores, visit www.paradores.es.
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